The Pompadour, Fairport Harbor
By Mimi Vanderhaven
Called “a genius in the kitchen” in a Cleveland Magazine story that named his restaurant one of Cleveland’s best, Chef Rusty James Phillips has earned kudos for his wildly inventive take on small plates.
This self-taught food rebel has gone from line cook to food truck owner to award-winning restaurateur, opening The Pompadour a decade ago in his hometown. Look for him to shake up the landscape even further in 2025, with the opening of Auteur, an innovative restaurant featuring multi-course tasting menus, curated events and wine bar; and Beach & Barrel with partner Chris Pinta, a craft beer-focused beach bar gastropub with Key West vibes.
Q. How old were you when you knew you wanted to become a Chef?
Since I was a young child, I dreamed of going to culinary school, but life got in the way. Building the food truck when the market crashed was a springboard to exploring the tapas, or small plates, style of preparing dishes.
Q. What was your inspiration for small plate service?
I love developing and playing with different flavor profiles. Small plates serve as the window into the soul of a chef and the opportunity to showcase his or her philosophy on food. They are also a wonderful way for people to gather around the shared food experience.
Q. Who is the most influential chef in your life?
When I was young, I loved cooking with my Sicilian grandfather and Armenian grandmother, but my dad was the biggest influence in my life. He was so inventive and crazy fearless in the kitchen.
Q. Do you watch any cooking shows?
While I don’t watch much television, in my spare time I enjoy reading cookbooks. Right now, I’m reading “Boka: The Cookbook” by Michelin-starred Cleveland native Lee Wolen. My wife and I love his restaurant in Chicago. I’m also reading “Core” by Clare Smyth, which is amazing.
Q. What’s the best meal you’ve ever experienced?
In my childhood, we didn’t have a lot, and my dad was sort of famous for coming up with dishes that were made from whatever we had in the fridge. One night he made dinner from two cans of tuna and spaghetti topped with leftover red sauce. My brother and I had low expectations—it sounded awful—but it ended up being delicious. I remember sitting around the table smiling at each other like it was yesterday.
My wife and I also recently returned from a culinary trip to NYC and were amazed by the trail-blazing restaurant Eleven Madison Park, which has gone all plant-based. It was really eye-opening to me, since I’m a big fan of proteins.
To nominate a chef for Mimi’s “Yes, Chef!” column, please email Mimi@MimiVanderhaven.com. The Pompadour is located at 320 High Street, Fairport Harbor. Call 440-639-0263 or visit ThePompadourbar.com for more information.